How to Make Lace-like Stepping Stones

For a complete tutorial, but with many more pictures, visit my Instructable!



When I found fifteen square stepping stones buried beneath the soil from a checkerboard garden project of mine from years ago, it reminded me of the wonderful creative things I used to do when I worked at home. The gardens were beautiful, things were in bloom, and weeds were in short supply.

While strolling through a second-hand store, I happened upon a vinyl doily for a mere fifty cents. Meh, I thought. Went home, plopped it on the dining room table and sort of forgot about it. A few mornings later, hubby and I were having coffee at the table. Where I sat, I could see where the plain stepping stones were. My gaze shifted to the doily, then to hubby, and then... a Eureka moment arrived!

Put on your work duds and let's make something nice for the yard!

Step 1: Supplies and materials needed...



Stepping stones - Choose a stone color that is in contrast to your paint color
A lace doily, or better yet, a vinyl / rubber doily (See step 6 for other options)
Outdoor / Exterior Spray paint - You'll want the paint to stand out.
(Choose lighter or darker than your stone)
Outdoor / Exterior Clear spray sealer
A large piece of cardboard. Even poster board will work just fine.
A pen, pencil, heck, even a crayon will work
A pair of scissors or a serrated knife.
A scrub brush
A source of water (bucket of, or garden hose)

One can of spray paint is typically enough to spray six or seven stones. Take into consideration the size of your stone, and the amount of paint required to cover the areas without 'lace'. While paper doilies are available, they would not be a wise choice, as the slightest breeze or even the spray of the paint would move the doily around.

Though most doilies are crocheted, it is easy to find vinyl table covers, place mats and other items to use. Please don't use an heirloom treasure your grandmother made by hand! Be sure to choose one that will give a pleasing result with a lot of coverage. If you have a large project in mind, consider table covers by the yard, which are found in many box stores.

Step 2: Let's go shopping! (Or use what you already have)



You are not limited to square stepping stones. In fact, if you enjoy working with concrete, you could even make your own, in any shape you desire!

Round stones, square, rectangles and so many other shapes are available in large home improvement centers. Try to choose a stone color that will be in contrast to the paint color you choose. Dark stone, light paint. Light stone, dark paint, and so forth.

You might even consider edging pieces. Lay them on their side, paint, and put into place. :-)

Step 3: Scrub the stones and allow them to dry...



The best weather for this project would be a nice, sunny day, maybe even with a bit of a breeze. You'll likely want to scrub or rinse off your stones to remove any concrete residue that may prevent the paint from adhering properly. Please note, you don't have to purchase a specific scrubbing tool for this, you could use an old hairbrush, a dirty old rag, an old toothbrush or such. And no, not your significant other's toothbrush, even in a moment of anger.

Rinse the stones off well and allow to dry thoroughly.

Don't be impatient. Let them dry.

Step 4: Trim away weeds before placing the stones...



Because this project was completed using items I already had in the garage, afterthought mentioned that weed barrier fabric would have been splendid, but...

We're used to weeds around here, but if you are not, consider laying fabric on the path where you will place your stones. I actually enjoy the more natural look, and not one that is so refined. We do, after all, live in the country.

Trim, yank, pull or do whatever is necessary to clear weeds from the area where your stones will be. Keep in mind, you don't want to fight with things getting in the way when painting. As for the Vinca major shown, take my advice. Don't plant it. We'll talk about that later. Maybe.

An easy way to do this is to place the stones as you wish, then run a weed trimmer over the tops and sides of the stones to clear away any plant growth.

Step 5: Make a painting shield...



If you have a work table available, a small stack of newspapers should suffice to keep the paint off your table.

If you are working directly on the ground, a painting shield may come in handy.

Simply lay one of your stones on top of a large piece of cardboard or poster board, then trace around it with a pencil. Remove the stone and cut the traced shape out of the board. The cardboard should now fit snugly over the stone.

This method allows you to spray only the stone, and not the surrounding materials and plants. It also helps to keep the spray from landing on stones you have already completed if you are working on a walkway that is already set in place.

Step 6: Decide on a doily or a stencil...



As a very devoted fan of the doily, I would like to mention that I don't necessarily approve of the damage and / or destruction caused to crocheted doilies should you choose to go that route. However, if you simply must, try to sacrifice one that is stained heavily, torn, etc. and not a nice one. If hand made, quite a bit of work went into it. Personally, I do not know how to crochet (yet) and am envious of the talent.

If you can't find a vinyl doily, don't fret. There are so many other options! Some of the larger box stores sell lacy plastic or vinyl tablecloths or table runners in rolls or by the yard.

Plastic stencils work great, too, and can often be found in hobby stores in so many shapes, and even alphabet stencils are a thought, too!

Consider using word stencils to spell out one of your favorite short quotes, placing one word on each stone. Or choose a quick and easy project and make three stones with "I Love You" or "Live, Love, Laugh". You have already thought of ideas, haven't you?

Step 7: Paint the stones...



After you have placed your painting shield over the stone, lay your doily of choice on top of the stone and give it a good coating of spray paint. Be sure to focus on the tiny holes, but don't hold the paint too close, or there will be blobs seeping underneath. A light mist around the edge, then the center, then back around again, giving good coverage, but not too heavy.

Allow the paint to dry a bit, then carefully lift the doily out of the way, draping it over something to allow any residual paint to dry on the doily.

Paint each stone, being careful not to step on them until they are completely dry.

Step 8: Paint, dry, then seal the stones.

After you have sprayed the stones with the lace, allow them to thoroughly dry. Using an exterior sealer, spray the tops of the stones to protect the paint finish.

If you have the funds available, opt for a small can of outdoor polyurethane. Your stones will look twice as gorgeous and the paint will last a lot longer, not to mention the cool beading effect rain will have on them.

Step 9: Add mulch for effect...

Mulch really does wonders for the garden. Consider adding some around and in between the stones for a wonderful effect!

I chose a nice pine bark nugget, which looks lovely next to the white stones.

Step 10: Before, during and after...

Although the lace stones provide quite a decorative effect, the dark mulch really sets it all off. I cannot wait until the rains come, which will darken the mulch even more, wetting the stones, enhancing the look.

This is a favorite place for our cats to hang out, so now that it is photo-worthy, we'll probably be likely to find one of the stinkers on a stepping stone. In fact, if you look at the top of the photo below, you can see Libbie walking on the stone I have yet to paint. But would she take a moment to pause, posing pretty? Nah.

For those with a keen eye, yes, Libbie is sitting on a stone yet to be painted.

Step 11: And finally...make them glow in the dark!



Oh, but you thought this project was over, yes? Not so. One final idea. Make your stepping stones glow in the dark!

Once your stones are dry to the touch, place the doily back onto the stone in the same location. If you used a doily with a specific pattern and contrasting color paint to the stone, this should be an easy feat.

Spray just as you did before, only this time, spray over the sections that have already been painted. The neat thing about this paint, you can't really see it in the daytime that well.

Come night time, grab a flashlight, charge up the stones and then turn out the lights. Lovely!

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial, and perhaps garnered a few ideas of your own.

Happy gardening!

Karen

EASY TO MAKE CONCRETE BOWLS AND PLANTERS...

For a complete tutorial loaded with even more pictures and instructions, click here.

For a quick, fun and very easy garden project, grab a bag of concrete, your imagination, and follow me!
Concrete planters and garden ornamentation are a wonderful addition to the outdoor setting around one's home.
Often, such decor comes with a high price, enormous size and incredible weight which is not easily transported. The solution? Make your own.
While you would likely not fare well to dive right into large scale concrete landscaping, you can dabble a bit in a smaller project to begin with. Then, when you find how addicting this craft is, take it easy on me for suggesting it. So let's get started.
What you will need:
CONCRETE - http://www.quikrete.com/index.asp

QUIKRETE® Concrete Mix (No. 1101) is the original
4000 psi average compressive strength blend of portland cement, sand, and gravel or stone. Just add water. Use for any general concrete work.
(Ver batum as posted on the Quikrete site) Resist the urge to use heavy duty concrete, as it is very chunky.

Though many home improvement stores carry ready-to-mix concrete in 80 pound bags, it is also available in other sizes, depending on your preference as well as ability to lug it around. Be sure to allow store employees to help load the larger bags into your car. There are many types of ready-to-mix available, choose accordingly. I prefer Quikrete (mainly because it is readily available in our area) and Quikrete Vinyl Concrete Patcher, but these products are mere suggestions. Nothing is cast in stone. Yet.


COLORING - Not a necessary item at all, though coloring concrete is quite fun, and easy! Check out liquid cement colors near the concrete section of your local hardware store. A 10 oz. bottle will color quite a bit of concrete. If you want to maintain color consistency in your projects, consider making up large bottles of colored water for your project, and be sure to keep a lid on the container of mixed water. Shake well before using.


MOLDS - A n endless supply of molds, containers an d other ideas are available everywhere. Scour yard sales, thrift stores and other thrifty places for interesting shapes and sizes. Don't stick to bowls, use your imagination. You could even make your own. Try not to choose anything with great detail, as you may be disappointed. For finer detail, use Vinyl Patch mix, which has far less bumps and bits of rock.

Just about any container can be utilized as a mold for concrete, provided you are able to get the finished product out of it. Bowls, cups, milk cartons, jugs, the ideas are bountiful. At present, I've found much delight in selecting unique glass containers from second hand stores and yard sales. If the finished item cannot be dropped or dumped out of the mold, after the concrete has fully set up, simply (and gently) tap the glass to crack or break it from your concrete creation, then rinse off the glass and be sure to take it to the recycling center.

Plastic, stainless steel and other materials release from the cured concrete easily when non-stick spray is applied to the mold prior to adding concrete.

NON-STICK COOKING SPRAY - Yes, release agents are sold specifically for the purpose of mold release when using concrete, but quite frankly, a cheap can of non-stick cooking spray works just fine. Use it generously to ensure your project will slide out of the mold.

A WATER BATH - Concrete is not as easy as mix, set and forget. It needs to harden, or 'cure'. Unfortunately, concrete is notorious for setting before the ingredients have had a chance to bond as securely as they could have. The result of a rushed concrete job is cracking, weakened durability and a crumbled project. I allow my projects to remain in the mold for a minimum of 24 hours, then carefully remove, and gently set the item into a deep bath of water for a minimum of one week. Okay, fine, I admit it, I stuff them into pond plant containers and sometimes in with the Koi. Often I submerge the entire project to avoid any damage. DON'T rush it, don't be impatient. The reward to patience is well worth it. A week. I mean it!

WATER - Necessary to mix with the concrete. Not too hot, not too cold, not too much, not too little. Perhaps my 'luck' has been the love of making mud pies as a child. Think Goldilocks, and mix well.

RUBBER GLOVES - Nothing fancy needed, but you should wear them. Be safe, not sorry. Concrete poisoning is no fun, and it's not pretty. I know this from personal experience.

EMERGENCY MOLDS - So you've mixed a pristine batch of concrete, you've sprayed the mold and you're in the process of filling it. Whoops, not enough concrete! Quick, dump it out and reach for another mold. Keep one close by for this very reason, and don't forget to spray it first. It is better to make a bit more than to end up a bit short.

A POKER - You'll need something about the circumference of a pencil to poke out air bubbles.

A LARGE SPOON - Or any similar item to mix the concrete. My favorite? A skinny garden trowel. Keep your eyes off items in the utensil drawer of the kitchen unless you no longer wish to use it on food.

BUCKETS, MEASURING CUPS, MISCELLANEOUS 'TOOLS OF THE TRADE' - Obtain inexpensive tools and reserve them for concrete projects alone, as they will become tarnished with concrete. Don't be wasteful. Clean and re-use your tools.

Spray your mold and set aside. Mix the concrete so it is about the consistency of peanut butter, not a slushee. It should hold a bit of form when shaped into a ball, but not so wet that it slumps, and not so dry that you can't make a ball without a great deal of effort. Pack the mold, tapping and poking the concrete down into any crevices in the mold. Once filled, level off the top with something flat like a ruler. Set on a level surface out of direct sun. Wait twenty four hours before you even think of touching it.

TIME - Now you have to make a decision. I've tried submerging the entire project, mold and all, for one week before attempting to remove glass molds, as well as removing the mold by breaking it after 24 hours. I highly suggest submerging the entire project. In a week's time, you will be able to gently smack the glass and remove it from the concrete as opposed to risking a not-quite-set-yet project.

After completion, be sure to wash off your tools as well as you can, and make certain you wash your hands and arms well. Apply lotion. In one week's time, remove the concrete item from the water and...enjoy!